4. Making the Device
Lets go shopping, make a list of the things you will needTools:
1. Saw that will cut large diameter PVC pipe, for my project I used a hacksaw and rotated pipe while cutting.
2. Pocket knife to cut tubing
3. Drill and bits to drill hole/s in canister and/or air cleaner housing for gas outlets/inlets
Resource for 3/8" ID vacuum check valves US Plastics
Resource for Sodium Hydroxide through Ebay search
Another good source is your local grocery store, buy Red Devil brand Lye (has a better mix than draino)
Materials (this is what I used, feel free to make improvements)
1. I word of caution, this got very hot when testing, use high temp hoses, I used 3/8" fuel line hose after my first prototype as the clear tubing melted. Make sure whatever you choose that it is tolerant to high temperatures.
2. 18 to 24 inches of 4" diameter PVC* sewer pipe, you will cut this to length (longer is better)
*ask your plumber what pipe he recommends for high temperatures
3. 1 solid end cap to close off bottom of canister
4. 1 end cap with threaded cleanout, this is the end where you will add your reactive mixture into
5. PVC prep solvent and glue, make sure you using the proper adhesive for your PVC or you might have leaks
6. Zip ties to hold your device in place, this must be done to prevent contact with hot or moving parts.
DO NOT MOUNT REACTION CHAMBER WITHIN 12 INCHES OF EXHAUST MANIFOLD/SYSTEM, TOO MUCH HEAT!!!
Silicone RTV to seal around fiuttings (use automotive type)
Vaseline or grease to seal threads on end cap
Several miscellanious 3/8" nipple fittings (90 degree and straight)
My list of parts set me back about $30.00, your cost may be more of less depending on your location
DO NOT MOUNT REACTION CHAMBER INSIDE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT::: EXPLOSION HAZARD
Cut your PVC pipe to the maximum length that your choice in location will allow, test fitting will be neccessary during this part once the proper length is determined then you can use the PVC prep solvent and glue (follow your products directions) to attach first the bottom end cap on, then repeat for the top cap. I test assembled everything first before gluing just to make sure it would fit my location ok. Closed hood, checked all clearances, then did a final assembly. Let glue cure for amount of time on adhesive can directions. After glue is cured then drill hole in side and top of reaction canster, just below bottom of cap but make sure you leave enough space to allow retaining nut to be installed. Seal with RTV sealant between hole and fitting, install nut and tighten. This connection needs to be gas tight, after RTV sealant is cured you can use a hand type bicycle pump to add a small amount of pressure through the nipple fitting and check for leaks with soapy water. You don't want any leaks in your canister.
Next step is to build a water lock tank, you can make this out of a meduim sized bottle and will be located away from hot or moving parts.
The inlet line goes to the bottom of the water lock and the outlet goes to air filter housing with tubing ran between them.